Into Zimbabwe

 

Bright and early, before the sun rose, we packed up camp and

headed to the Zimbabwe border.

Our guide had decided for us to be there very early because sometimes

it can take a long time to get through border control and he didn't want 

to lose a lot of time.

Turns out, his instincts were good.

We arrived just before the big rush and managed to get everybody

through passport control in an hour. By the time we were ready

to continue our journey, a long queue had formed behind us.

Also, a family of warthogs clattered through the parking lot. 

Once into Zimbabwe, we made our way to the final destination of our trip:

Victoria Falls.

We were given a short tour of the town so we'd know where to find

everything, then settled into camp and got our tents set up.

It was my last night in the camp tents; I'd planned for an extra night in Vic Falls

on my own, and so would move to a hostel for my second night.

Generally, I spent this day exploring town, swimming in the lodge pool,

shopping in the curio markets, dodging the sidewalk vendors.

If you like what the sidewalk guys are selling, it's okay to give them money,

but they are high-pressure salesmen who won't accept your first or

second or even third or fourth "no thank you". 

It got a bit tiring, and is really the only thing about Vic Falls

that's kind of irritating.

In the afternoon, I'd arranged to have a facial at a spa.

I'd never had a facial before.

I booked my appointment at the front desk of the camp lodge, then about

fifteen minutes before my appointment time, I met a cab driver at the lodge desk

who would take me to the spa. The same man picked me up when

my treatment was done and he drove me back to the lodge.

It was an hour-long treatment, with some light massage,

cleansers, serums, masks, and exfoliation.

Honestly, I really enjoyed it.

The lady did a great job and my skin felt so much better afterward.

Scrubbed out the camping grime and relaxed a bit.

A bit of a splurge, as I'm not much of a spa person, 

but worth every penny.

Enjoying some local brews at the bar.

oh boy, you ain't kidding.

One of the more unique things I brought back with me.

Before we left Chobe, a man came to our campsite and took orders

for customized t-shirts. They would be printed and be ready for us

when we arrived in Vic Falls.

I bought two. This black "Africa is not for sissies"

and one of the trip-specific shirts, that had our safari route

printed on the back.

We could choose what designs we wanted on the front, back and sleeves

and what color our shirts would be.

$30 each and ready for us the next day.

Pretty slick operation.

In the curio markets, I found some gifts and goodies to

bring back home to friends and family. You were expected to

haggle a bit at the markets.

In one of the last shops, I realized I'd gotten through my budgeted

souvenir money, but still had some Botswana pula left.

(pula means "rain" in Setswana)

I didn't want to bring all that foreign money home, so

when I wandered into a shop that had a wall of these

masks, I asked the man if he accepted pula

(they really want US cash, but will accept pula as well)

Pointing to this mask, I asked how much in pula.

1000 pula, he says.

Well, I have 800 pula, will you take that?

Yes!

I handed over my pula and he wrapped up the mask and I was on my way.

It remained wrapped in the bubble wrap and tape until I got home.

It's now on my wall next to the 100 year old map of the African continent

and it makes me happy to look at it. :^)

Another local brew.

monkey!

The next morning, our last morning as a group, I joined up with

a few other campers and we headed over to see the Falls.

It was a short walk from our camp lodge.

more hornbills.

love 'em!

On the Zimbabwe side, there is a walking path with points of interest.

This was early September, the low season. So the falls are at a

relative trickle compared to when the rainy season hits it.

In a way, I was okay with that.

Without the spray from the falls, you can actually see them.

It's still a stunning experience to see one of the largest waterfalls in the world.

Instead of the water falling from a mountain or plateau, Victoria Falls is unique

in that the water just follows the flat plain until it falls into the crevasse. 

Do you see the rainbow?

the bridge. 

we watched someone bungee off of it.

Front Seat Shark at the Falls!

Before leaving the Falls, my tent partner and I enjoyed a relaxing moment

in the cafe. I had a juice smoothie and an iced coffee. Gotta stay hydrated!

And we talked a bit about the trip and where we were each headed next.

It was soon time to hail a cab and get myself and all my stuff to the hostel.

Shoestrings Backpacker's hostel was perfect for my needs.

Got checked in and into my dorm. The bunks are pretty basic, but reasonably comfortable.

I rearranged all my stuff and cleaned out my duffle bag. It was my last night in Africa.

The dorm I was assigned into.

Mixed dorm. There was a guy and another woman there with me.

My first time in a dorm with mixed genders, but there wasn't really an option otherwise.

It was fine though.

The hostel compound was fenced in.

And it took me a moment to realize the fences are probably there

to keep out the wildlife, not necessarily people.

Across the street from the entrance I watched a group of baboons.

And I'd seen several warthogs just walking around the markets.

The last thing I had scheduled before leaving for home 

was a luxury sunset cruise on the Zambezi River.

I had booked this before I left home.

Right on time, the van arrived at the hostel to pick me up

to take me to the pier. I presented my ticket and was welcomed aboard.

Drinks and light snacks were included in my cruise ticket.

I had some gin & tonics and sparkling water.

I don't really like gin, but it is the style here, so 

when in Africa, drink as the Africans drink.

Tonic water has trace amounts of quinine, which has

some benefits to protect against malaria.

A couple of people joined me on my little couch.

They were from Ohio, if you'd believe it.

Apparently, they just wandered into Victoria Falls and started booking

themselves onto cruises and game drives. 

It seemed a bit mad to me to travel so far without concrete plans, 

but I hope it worked out for them. LOL

From where we were on the Zambezi River, one is surrounded by 

Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, and Namibia.

On the shores we saw elephants, some of whom waded into the water for a swim,

and one of the most giant crocodiles I'd ever seen.

I didn't get a picture, but I swear the croc was as big as my car!

The cruise staff offered me a veggie version of the snacks.

Very considerate of them.

My last African sunset.

Felt a bit sad to have to leave.

The cruise boat.

Operated by Pure Africa.

The next morning, I had some coffee and a light breakfast before

my cab was due to arrive to take me to the airport.

When I was ready to leave the camp lodge the day before, I

had asked the front desk to call a cab for me.

The cabbie arrived in a beat up car (most of the cars used as taxis are

older and kind of run down) and I had asked him if he could also take me to 

the airport the next morning.

I told him 10AM, and he had me take a photo of his card with his number on it.

He asked for my name and drove off. I assumed I would need to call him in the morning.

After breakfast, I grabbed my luggage, and went to the front desk to

return my key. I asked the lady if I could use her phone because

my cell phone didn't have service and I needed to call my cab driver.

She took one look at the card and told me to wait until 10AM, because

apparently these guys never forget anything.

I'd barely stepped outside the desk building and an old,

faded minivan drives up to the hostel entrance. A different

man from the person who'd brought me to the hostel climbs out

and he asks for me by name.

If this had happened anywhere in the States, I probably would

have had alarm bells and red flags blasting in my head.

But, after a second or two of consideration, and recalling 

how unconcerned the front desk lady was about it,

I decided that this must be how things are done here.

The man helped me with my bags and we drove out to the airport,

stopping along the way to get some gas for the car. I'd checked a map

before leaving and so had some idea how far the ride should be,

but in the end, everything was fine. We arrived at the airport,

I paid him the fare we'd agreed on, handed him the handful

 of Botswana coins I had leftover, grabbed my bags, and he drove away.

The rest of the journey home was a lot of waiting and a 16 hour flight from

Johannesburg to Atlanta, Georgia.

More lines and passport control and security checks.

And then home at last.

My parents greeted me at the Moline airport.

It took me over a year to plan.

I'd spent a small fortune.

I'd had to save up almost all of my paid vacation time for the 

entire year for just this trip.

So much work, but it was absolutely worth it.

I love Africa and hope to someday get myself there again.

To explore more of this surprising and amazing place.

🐘🐗🐒